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The Forager: New cheese, better coffee & end of an institution?

Jul 01, 2015
New cheese producer Tony Harding of Seavewe Artisan Sheep Dairy. Photo: supplied

New cheese producer Tony Harding of Seavewe Artisan Sheep Dairy. Photo: supplied

In this week’s column: a new cheese producer for the Fleurieu, changes in store for a Willunga institution, Colin & Co calls in a coffee expert, and the Greek wine that’s set to be the next big thing.

Sheep’s milk on the Fleurieu

Another new South Australian cheese producer, Seavewe Artisan Sheep Dairy, is set to start churning next week.

Based at Hay Flat (between Yankalilla and Normanville on the Fleurieu Peninsula) Seavewe’s Tony and Corinne Harding run a herd of 45 Poll Dorset X East Friesian sheep. The small, but growing, herd is machine-milked by the Hardings to yield 30 to 40 litres of milk each day.

Next week, Tony says, they will start producing ricotta, haloumi, feta, and “a sheep style camembert”.

“We will be making South Australia’s only sheep milk ricotta and camembert.”

Tony says that it’s cheaper to buy frozen sheep milk from New Zealand than produce it himself, but he’s following the “paddock to plate” philosophy. “We’re about the cheese coming from our girls to the consumer.”

Originally an automotive educator, but like South Australia’s other new cheese maker Kym Masters from Section 28 at Woodside, Tony has always been interested in cheese. After visiting a sheep dairy in Switzerland, he decided to study the Certificate 3 in Artisan Cheese Making at Regency TAFE.

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Tony Harding and some of his ewes in the dairy. Photo: supplied

Tony has also worked alongside Denise Riches milking goats at her award-winning Hindmarsh Valley Dairy.

The Hardings will also start making some soft cow milk cheeses using the locally produced Fleurieu Milk Company milk.

“To produce our own sheep milk it costs $7 to $10 per litre when you factor in the feeding, milking and management of a herd,” explains Tony. “But you can buy two litres of good quality cow milk for $4.”

Seavewe’s sheep and cow milk cheeses will be available in two to three weeks’ time. At this point the Hardings don’t have a cellar door, but will sell locally through restaurants such as Leonard’s Mill at Second Valley and Caffe on Bungala (formerly Jetty Food Store) at Normanville. They will also take phone orders (0448 628 506).

“We want to build relationships with our customers so we can cater to their tastes.”

Moving on from Willunga?

The word in the restaurant industry is that the lease is up on Fino Willunga and the entire operation is set to decamp to the Barossa.

A highly respected part of South Australia’s food culture, Fino has operated in the historic township of Willunga for the best part of 10 years. It’s renowned for its use of local and seasonal ingredients sourced from local producers, its carefully designed wine list and excellent service.

Owners David Swain and Sharon Romeo opened a second restaurant, Fino Seppeltsfield, in the Barossa last year, and have been splitting their time between the two institutions ever since. A number of Willunga Fino’s most experienced chefs and front of house staff have been moved full-time to the Barossa operation.

Romeo would not comment when asked about Fino Willunga’s future, and Swain is away.

The restaurant remains open, and we’ll inform readers as soon as the owners make an announcement about its future.

The “Co” in Colin & Co

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Colin & Co cafe on Grenfell Street. Photo: supplied

Colin & Co’s Colin Baldock has teamed up with coffee “gun” Tony Jeffson to fire up the espresso machine in the Grenfell Street café.

Baldock says Jesson is known for his Espresso at Events coffee carts at Adelaide Oval and the Royal Adelaide Show. “He’s a real gun when it comes to coffee and he was keen to have a base in the city.”

Baldock also says it was a two-way deal.

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Jesson and Baldock at the coffee machine. Photo: supplied

“We thought that our takeaway coffee service could be improved with the speed, performance and knowledge of a good barista,” Baldock explains.

“Colin & Co offers better class and sophistication than the food court at Rundle Place and we’re hoping that by sharpening our coffee skills that we will bring in the workers from around Grenfell Street.

“We’re also planning to put a Colin & Co coffee cart into Rundle Mall and to leverage off that to bring people in from the Mall as well.”

Baldock won’t divulge which brand of coffee is used at Colin & Co, but says it’s an exclusive blend that is locally roasted.

Colin & Co has been open in its current CBD local for just over two years after establishing a reputation for its menu of fresh raw foods.

“Its real food without preservatives and chemicals and all that rubbish, that’s the best part of it, all hand-made sort of stuff.”

Prior to opening Colin & Co, Baldock had the Adelaide franchise for Jones the Grocer for nearly seven years. “I almost made the Grenfell Street café a Jones the Grocer, but luckily I didn’t as Jones the Grocer has abandoned Australia and is based in Singapore,” says Baldock. “Louis Vuitton owns half of it now.”

Out and about…

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Better than the chocolate bar – Welgemoed’s ‘Peppermint Crisp’. Photo: Mary Taylor

It’s all Greek – InDaily joined a contingent of local wine experts for a tasting of Greek wines including South Australia’s first locally produced Greek varietal matched to a menu by chef Duncan Welgemoed at Africola.

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The event was designed to showcase Greek wines and varietals alongside flavours and textures outside of the country’s own cuisine. The menu included fish, charcuterie, steak and chocolate dishes matched to 11 different wines including the Jim Barry Assyrtiko 2015, the soon-to-be released first commercial vintage.

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Cured kingfish. Photo: Mary Taylor

Jim Barry Wines pioneered the planting of Assyrtiko in South Australia, a variety which thrives in Greece’s dry, hot summers and produces wines of high acidity and freshness.

The Jim Barry Assyrtiko 2015 and the 2012 Estate Agyros Assyrtiko from Santorini (available from East End Cellars) was matched with the cured kingfish (pictured). The ‘Peppermint Crisp’ dessert (pictured top) was matched to the Domaine Sigalas Vinsanto, a sweet blend of sun dried Assyrtiko and Aidani grapes, made in Santorini and aged in oak for 24 months.

These are the first of many Greek wines and varietals yet to be seen in Adelaide.

Chocolate and books

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Haigh’s speckles. Photo: supplied

Tomorrow the State Library of South Australia will open a special exhibition which celebrates Haigh’s 100 years of chocolate making.

Haigh’s is Australia’s oldest family owned chocolate maker and was founded by Alfred E Haigh at 34 King William Street on 1 May, 1915.

Since then the business has grown to 14 retail stores located in Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney. It employs more than 500 people and is still operated by the Haigh family.

The exhibition offers viewers insights into the four generations of the Haigh family, the company history and chocolate making with displays of memorabilia, imagery, packaging, cocoa beans and chocolates.

There will also be a “guess the number of speckles” competition for a chance to win a $100 chocolate hamper.

This week at the Adelaide Farmers’ Market – Celeriac

Celeriac resized Photo Andre Castellucci

Celeriac. Photo: Andre Castellucci

Celeriac, also known as turnip-rooted celery or knob celery, is a variety of the celery family cultivated for its edible roots and shoots.

It is a tuberous beige-skinned root vegetable that grows beneath the surface of the soil. It has white flesh and a very earthy, pungent flavour similar to a cross between celery and parsley with nutty overtones.

Celeriac can be peeled and diced and roasted, mashed or braised, finely chopped or grated and used raw in salads.

Although celeriac is not the prettiest of vegetables, it is low in saturated fat and cholesterol and a good source of potassium, phosphorous, dietary fibre and vitamins B6 and C.

Farmers’ Market stallholders Patlin Gardens and W & B Hart both sell celeriac on Sundays from 9am to 1pm at the Adelaide Showground Farmers’ Market.

What’s on?

Coonawarra Cellar Dwellers – until July 31
The Coonawarra wine region will dig out some treasures from the cellars to offer visitors a rare opportunity to taste and buy aged wine during the month of July. Coonawarra wines are well known for their ageing ability, and Cellar Dwellers provides an opportunity to taste wines that are otherwise not available for tasting. Book into one of the many dinners and degustations held throughout the month or simply wander the vineyards and visit the cellar doors before warming up with a glass of Coonawarra aged wine in front of a crackling open fire.

Adelaide Beer & BBQ Festival – July 10 to 12
Join Adelaide barbecue kings and beer brewers at the Adelaide Showgrounds’ Brick Dairy Pavilion and lawns during the Adelaide Beer & BBQ Festival for barbecuing demonstrations and artisan beers and ciders. A feature bar dedicated to the winning brews from the Royal Adelaide Beer and Cider Awards will also be open for tastings.

Feast on Dumplings – July 18
Walking food tours company Feast on Food is holding Adelaide’s first dumpling tour. Starting on July 18 at 2.30pm and held weekly thereafter, the all-inclusive tour takes participants to some of Adelaide’s new, quirkiest and most delicious dumpling secrets. Cost is $49 per person. Feast on Foot also offers its Feast on the Street walking food and street art tour of the CBD every Saturday from 10am. Cost is $25 pay-your-own-way or $69 all inclusive. Bookings can be made here.

Winter Reds – July 24 to 26
Fire up your winter soul in the Adelaide Hills at the Winter Reds weekend, with more than 30 wineries offering ticketed and general-admission food and wine events.

News, tips and information?

The Forager would love to hear about your news, events and suggestions. Please contact us at [email protected].

 

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